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SSTR 2025 Ride Report – Day 2 | From Shizugatake to Hikone Castle and Sekigahara: A Day of Lake Biwa and Samurai History

彦根城とひこにゃん Moto-life in Japan

The day after completing SSTR was dedicated to sightseeing.
With the theme “Lake Biwa and Sekigahara,” I set out to visit historic landmarks steeped in Japan’s Sengoku (Warring States) era.
Hoping I wouldn’t need rain gear again, I departed from Hakui City.

Day 2 Route Overview

I rode about 350 km on this day, heading south on the Hokuriku Expressway.
The route took me through Shizugatake, Hikone, and Sekigahara—iconic sites of Japanese history—before arriving in Toki City, Gifu.

From Noto to Northern Lake Biwa

My first stop was the Shizugatake Battlefield Ruins.
Taking a lift to the mountaintop, I reached a site where fierce battles once raged during the Sengoku period.

Lift to the summit of Shizugatake
Lift to the summit of Shizugatake
Battle map of Shizugatake
Battle map of Shizugatake
Shizugatake Battlefield Ruins
Shizugatake Battlefield Ruins

From the summit, breathtaking views stretch out over Lake Biwa and Lake Yogo.
It’s one of the best scenic spots overlooking Lake Biwa, and I was impressed to find the view just as I remembered from a visit over 40 years ago when I was a student.

View of Northern Lake Biwa
View of Northern Lake Biwa
View of Lake Yogo
View of Lake Yogo

As far as I know, only three places accessible by vehicle offer views like this: Mt. Hiei, the Biwako Valley Ski Resort, and this spot at Shizugatake.

Lunch at a Lakeside Roadside Station

I took a lunch break at Roadside Station Kohoku Mizudori Station, located along the lakeside Sazanami Road.
I was hoping for something local and ended up ordering “Oowashi Ramen” on a whim after seeing the sign.

Oowashi Ramen
Oowashi Ramen

Its black broth was a surprise, but the light, garlic-forward flavor was absolutely delicious.
A little quirky, but very satisfying—I recommend trying it if you’re touring around Lake Biwa.

Exploring Hikone Castle

After lunch, I visited Hikone Castle, a designated National Treasure.
The original keep was impressive, and the way the castle used the geography of Lake Biwa was fascinating.
You can really sense the scale of the old castle town from the surrounding landscape—definitely worth a visit.

But first to greet me was Hikonyan, the castle’s mascot character.

Hikonyan mascot
Hikonyan mascot
Entrance to Hikone Castle
Entrance to Hikone Castle
Main keep of Hikone Castle
Main keep of Hikone Castle
Interior of the main keep at Hikone Castle
Interior of the main keep at Hikone Castle
View from the top of Hikone Castle
View from the top of Hikone Castle
Diorama of Hikone Castle
Diorama of Hikone Castle

Reflecting at Sekigahara

From Hikone, I rode about 30 minutes on the Meishin Expressway to Sekigahara.
Next to the Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum is a cafe called Ibukian, where I took a short break.
The menu included playful items like “Betrayal Carbonara” and “Struggling Foot Soldier Curry,” but I kept it light with a banana latte.

Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum
Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum
Ibukian (café next to the museum)
Ibukian (café next to the museum)
Menu at Ibukian
Menu at Ibukian
Banana latte from Ibukian
Banana latte from Ibukian

After that, I visited the site where Tokugawa Ieyasu is said to have set up his final camp.
This was also where head inspections were reportedly held.
The area was peaceful and quiet, yet carried the heavy weight of history.

Tokugawa Ieyasu’s final encampment site in Sekigahara
Tokugawa Ieyasu’s final encampment site in Sekigahara

Arriving at the Hotel

That night I stayed at Hotel Route-Inn Toki.
I chose this mid-point location to make the return ride on the final day easier.
The hotel had a large artificial hot spring bath—perfect for soaking away the fatigue of the day’s ride.

For dinner, I walked to Shinsaibashi, a well-known restaurant specializing in eel.
I enjoyed dishes like Unagi Kamameshi (eel rice pot), Tuna with grated yam, and Japanese-style omelet.

Unagi Kamameshi at Shinsaibashi
Unagi Kamameshi at Shinsaibashi
Tuna with grated yam and Japanese omelet at Shinsaibashi
Tuna with grated yam and Japanese omelet at Shinsaibashi

Everything was generously portioned and absolutely delicious. It’s a place worth seeking out.

Heading Home to Tokyo

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast at the hotel, I headed east on the Chuo Expressway.
I was lucky to pass through the notorious Kobotoke Tunnel just before traffic started to build up.

That day, I rode another 350 km and safely completed my three-day SSTR + sightseeing journey.

Summary

The post-SSTR sightseeing ride turned into a luxurious day filled with historical depth.
The stunning view from Shizugatake, the original keep of Hikone Castle, and the solemn battlefield at Sekigahara—each was a highlight that left a lasting impression.

And at the end of the journey, a delicious eel dinner and a sense of fulfillment.
It felt like I had recharged my spirit for the next adventure.

FAQ

Q. What are the benefits of doing a sightseeing tour after completing SSTR?
A. One of the biggest advantages is being able to enjoy routes you might not normally choose—while still basking in the sense of accomplishment from the rally.
With your mind and body fully relaxed, you can take in the scenery and history more deeply than usual.

Q. What kind of place is the Shizugatake Battlefield?
A. It’s a historic battlefield from the Sengoku period, offering a stunning panoramic view over both Lake Biwa and Lake Yogo.
The summit is accessible by lift, making it relatively easy to reach.

Q. Why did you stay in Toki City?
A. I chose Toki City because it’s located roughly halfway between Kansai and Tokyo, which made the return trip easier.
It also offers convenient highway access and a good selection of business hotels with large public baths.